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"His creative, imaginative cuisine has its roots in logic commonsense, craft skills of the highest order, and a focus on raw materials of the finest qualities...."

Marmalade

This marmalade has a lovely fresh, light flavour, perfect for breakfast.

It really is delicious with slices of Brown soda bread (page 00) and lots of butter. It can also accompany anything chocolately; try spreading a spoonful over the base of each ramekin before pouring in the Irish whiskey chocolate pudding mixture or fold a couple of tablespoons into lightly whipped cream and serve with my Bread and butter pudding (page 00). Gently reheated, it makes an excellent sauce for sautéed duck breasts.

Thinly pare the rind from one of the oranges and the grapefruit, taking care not to remove the white pith. Cut into very fine shreds and place in a heavy-based pan. Using a very shape knife, remove all the skin and white pith from all of the oranges and the grapefruit, then carefully cut into segments – you should end up with about 250 g/9 oz in total so that you have the same amount as the sugar. Add to the pan with the sugar and 700 ml/1 1/4 pints of water.

Bring the pan to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 20 minutes until reduced and slightly sticky. Remove from the heat and let it stand for about 15 minutes before potting into sterilised jam or Kilner jars (page 00). Otherwise transfer to a bowl, cover with cling film and chill until needed. It will keep happily like this for up to one month in the fridge.